TIGER ATTACKS HIT DANDASWAURA

This last week has been yet another medley of events to thrill the senses, and feed the soul. We have had some good clear mornings where the mountains are visible. As I sit eating my breakfast, the sight of them always renders me speechless with wonder. Their majestic beauty and size can almost lure you into feeling they are some sort of god. The Nepalese are brought up on tales of wonder about the mountains and their god like qualities. I remember early one morning on my trek (which i still have to write about) standing on the balcony of the small tea house where we were staying. The elderly couple living there were standing with their backs to me just staring in silence at the Annapurna range. Something they probably share every morning. The three of us said nothing, after a few moments they turned looked at each other and then to me. We all nodded with an unspoken appreciation of the awesome beauty before us.

Rosemary arrived last Sunday, I picked her up from Pokara. It was so exciting for me to be able to share some of the experiences here, and enjoy her enjoyment. She settled in really well in the room next door to me which is great. We sit on our step together looking out over the network of mostly inaccessible valleys and foothills. Ive been here over 5 weeks now and I still check the view every morning in wonderment, the light only has to change slightly and you spot something new.

The first couple of nights she was here were full of excitement. The dogs here are kept very much for guard purposes against tiger or leopard attacks. A dog will smell a tiger a mile off so they give great warning. Although the villages reassure us there is no threat to humans, it is their goats, oxen and buffalo that they worry about. A dog is a small price to pay for the safety of their livelihood.

Vims dog was absolutely frantic on the first night, just stood staring and growling with that low threatening growl that dogs do when they really mean it. I had no idea what the problem was and said to Rosemary that I couldnt understand why he was being like this, hes normally quiet at night. We went to bed and thought nothing more of it. Rosemary got up at 4.00am to go to the loo, came outside with her torch and was confronted with Vims dog growling and heckles up. He seemed to be looking straight at her. She got such a fright, Rabies Rabies was ringing in her ears!! decided not to go out to the loo and resort to the bucket instead!! or washing up bowl in her case!!

The next morning Vims dog was no more, and we now know that the village has had similar attacks during the last week. An oxen has been killed and also a pig by a tiger or leopard, we know not which.

A couple of months ago they had a similar spate of attacks which were terrorising the livestock. Ram (the chairman) and a few strong young men decided to do something about it. They were able to track the tiger to a particular area of the jungle. Where they killed a goat and poisoned the meat and just waited. The tiger eventually ate the poisoned meat and was in a sedated state, they then bludgeoned him to death with rocks!!!!!

I totally understand why this situation came about because after all it is their lives at stake, it just seems so sad that the Nepalese government does not set up some sort of body that villagers can go to for help. The tigers could be sedated and rehabilitated in the Chitwan area which is protected. I dont know how many tigers are left in India and Nepal, but certainly not many, and if this kind of thing is happening with regularity it wont be long before they are depleted! See photo of oxen that has been killed!!

This kind of thing is not documented at all................. I assume because the Nepalese and Indian governments cannot be seen to be flaunting the laws on protected species.

Then again, and I always play "devils advocate" when a whole nation is as poor as these people, are they really going to worry about a few tigers and leopards????.

That is the luxury of the lives that we all lead in the west!!..................... I am amazed that some celebrity or other hasnt taken it up as validation for their life. And maybe it is our responsibilty to take on these projects if we really want to make a difference?.......................I can feel a letter to David and Victoria Beckham coming on!!!!............ Dont worry folks I havent lost the plot completely........

Rosemarys arrival brought "welcome programs" galore. The Nepalese love their " programs" with the speeches and formality. It is very charming and almost victorian in its feel. I have already had 2 since I have been here and now understand the kind of speech that is expected, which is a great relief! The school had organised a "programe"which lasted for about 1 and half hours. The children were kept after school and sat in the blazing heat poor things, waiting for our arrival, when they formed an avenue and clapped us in. All the children had smiles, nameste and

flowers to give. I think Rosemary was very touched and had no idea what to expect. Infact the more it happens to me the more I appreciate it, they go to so much trouble. Garlands of flowers were given to us by the Headmaster and teachers, all hand made and each flower tied individually. Speeches were made, and blessings were given in the form of tika (the red powder on the forehead)and blessing scarves. By the end of it we look like something out of " Billy Smarts circus" have so much around your neck it weighs a ton and is boiling hot!!!! But all given and recieved with much joy...............................After the school programe, it was down to the village for the "Village programe" held in the community building below our kitchen. "The Mothers Community" had cooked a meal for us. The menu being a selection of vegetarian dishes, and a goats meat curry. I have had some experience of the meat menu and managed to sort out the recognisable pieces of meat. Rosemary poor thing just got stuck in and the first mouthful was something round and not recognisable at all. She managed to swallow!!!!!!!!!!!!! They literally put everything in the pot from ears to testicles. And they WATCH you eat!!!!

After many speeches, flowers, tika and greetings we went to bed pretty exhausted.

The next day I went to school as usual and Rosemary had a relaxing day, she had been traveling for the best part of 4 days so was pretty tired. That night supper as usual. The Mob arrived and someone suggested that Rosemary might like to hear the Maudal. A drum was quickly found from the youth club and the music started, with us clapping and singing a favourite trekking song known by all the nepalese. With in 5 minutes the place was full, everyone had heard the music and singing and found their way up. There was singing and dancing and laughter that only the Nepalese can produce from 2 maudals and alot of willingness to participate. AND by the way no alcohol apart from R and I had a beer! The young boys were dancing, they were brilliant and so uninhibited and loving it! and Lutchens gave us a little demo!! Alot of fun!!!

The next day we visited Namche, this is the other school that I have been visiting, Its a tiny school that is falling down around them and they desperately need some help. They have only had electricity for the last few weeks which was put in by Gupta, I have spoken about him before. The Headmaster Hari Krishne is delightful and very lovely with the children. He really does struggle with the resources that are next to nothing. A few books that hang on a washing line in the staff room, holes in the floor that the furniture is arrange around. Some of the holes are large enough to put your foot through, and certainly a childs foot! The atmosphere here is completely the opposite to Dandaswaura, its quiet and very gentle. I like spending time here but its such a shock from the noise and bustle of the other school and I do find it quite difficult to switch my approach. The children are attentive and very charming. In both schools the nursery class get the short end of the straw, and they all sit on wooden pallets, with no tables or chairs. So my contribution to both schools has been to provide them with low tables and benches for these children to at least have some thing they can draw a picture on. And learn to hold a pencil properly. Trying to convince them that they do not sit on the table is another matter!!! Rosemarys company also donated some funds that we have put into paper, pencils, crayons, rubbers etc etc, and also a slide for the Namche Playground. Which Hari says will encourage the local families to send their children to the school, which in turn will provide more funding. The government training for teachers is very lacking generally. Everything is by the book and they all just repeat what the teacher says with out any real understanding. So I would like to try to raise enough money to send a nursery teacher from each school for some Montersori training. It is a three month course and costs approx £300 per person. I feel that if they get a good start in Nursery then at least they have a foundation for the next phase. I have found that Class 1 straight out from nursery have no idea of boundaries and they do tend to run riot, mainly because they have no structure or variety in nursery at all.

On our way home, Kaman and I decided we would make a detour to the village that we have been wanting to walk to for some time. Rosemary went straight back. We walked for about 1 hour down into a very deep gully where there was the most beautiful rock pools, fed by 2 springs. It was just so tempting to strip off and wash in the crystal clear water, and deep enough to swim in parts. I decided that Kaman would probably be very embarassed if i did take the plunge so made a plan to return the next day. We walked for another hour up into the village and then on through and out the other side. Stopping and chatting with the locals along the way, they all seem to know who I am. I either teach their children or neices or nephews. At one place we were invited to sit and share some papaya with a family, the mother peeled and cut the fruit with a sickle which seems to be used for just about everything. Their son is in class 1 his name is Mausam and is sooooooooooo naughty!! It was very welcome, we were hot and tired by this stage and it was good to have something sweet to get us back. The walk from here was a good hour to get us back, and it occurred to me that Mausam and alot of the other kids do this every day, twice a day.