teenage boys and me in a bat cave!

By the way none of this is in order just incase youre wondering. Charlotte set this whole thing up for me and didnt explain how to arrange photos or title them so it all takes me for ever. I am now grossly behind but thought I would post this one anyway.Even though its nowhere near the beginning!

I have just returned from the most hilarious afternoon, or at least I can laugh at it now. The boys led by Benot decided that they wanted to take me to one of their favourite haunts. The Caves!! After a few queries like how far? how long will it take? is it difficult to get there? etc etc. I was told Oh Madame it is very near, only 20 minutes walk,very easy terrain, and you will just love it. So after school, a quick change, and we all set off. Down the path, pass the school and on down towards Syangja. It wasnt long before we turned off the wide path, and down through a forest literally on the edge of a cliff. Dont worry I kept telling myself this is all going to be fine, and after all Kaman is here to make sure. On and On we went, this was a climb down over boulders and rocks, not a walk at all. The boys were more like a cross between mountain goats and monkeys than anything else I have ever seen. I didnt allow myself to think about the return journey.
The boys were rushing ahead out of sight and then they would appear as if from nowhere. Laughing, singing and just being boys.
After about 1 and a half hours we found ourselves at the bottom of a gorge, which yes it was very beautiful, during the monsoon season this was a fast running waterfall/river, now it was a gently trickle of water creating rock pools at the bottom. We sat and cooled down pouring the water over our heads and washing our hands.
The boys were terribly excited now because we could see the entrance to the cave, apparently it was a holy sight for the Hindu religion and just inside was an altar for the god (cant remember the name)I was assured by the boys that we should not go the easy route, but the dark low cavenous way was really worth it because we would come to a waterfall, and old paintings on the walls of the inner cave, and see the bats. OK I thought,Indiana jones and "the temple of the lost ark" lets go for it.
Lights at the ready we started our scramble over the rocks, water was pouring out of the cave from a natural spring, we managed to step on the rocks so we didnt get our boots too wet. The boys were laughing and joking, cojoling me along. Im starting to feel slightly uncomfortable with all this, its pitch black, and the ceiling is getting lower and lower. I ask how much farther? Oh we re nearly there its so wonderfull please come, come. OK on I go, by this stage Im on all fours clambering along I cant see any daylight at all behind, but Kaman is there holding the light, laughing, by this stage I can only manage to crawl. The boys appear from ahead holding what looks like a rat, of course its a bat! they take great delight in showing me the wing span, great I thought but Maybe this lost ark or bat business just isnt for me. OK chaps its time to turn round now.
Oh no no you have to come on. The waterfall is only just around the corner. I am now starting to think about other times in my life when maybe I should have shown a little more caution. Havanna! when I decided it would be just wonderful to go and find some salsa music at 12.00am and Theresa and I only just escaped being mugged! Ireland! Wouldnt it be such fun to go galloping in the morning for the trainer Micheal Houragan, I got completely run away with!
At this point there is a flurry up ahead Bats!! they fly at me, hitting my face, I can feel the rush of air as others are flying all around me.Im screaming and everyone else is laughing! Its at this stage in the film where the whimp is making so much noise that it causes a rock fall and the exit is blocked!! or an earth quake!!!
IVE HAD ENOUGH. NO THATS IT BOYS IM GOING BACK.
Kaman comes with me and we clamber back the way we came,or so we thought. I suddenly realise that the water is deeper than it had been before. No this cant be right we turn around and go back. Oh lord by this time Im wondering what on earth we are going to do if we cant find our way out. The boys have gone on even deeper into the mountain. Just think Deborah what did we do before?? Kaman saves the day there is a small hole that we had forgotten we should have climbed up into, he assures me over and over again its right and sure enough I could just see some daylight appearing up ahead. I cannot tell you the relief.
When we emerged from the cave, I realised I was covered in bat poo, absolutely plastered, and stinking. We washed off as much as we could from the spring water, but I just wanted to get home by this stage.

Kaman has a look on his face that Im not too happy with. Whats the matter I ask. He points into the distance, and there is the most enormous black storm cloud looming up. I was a little worried about leaving the boys but Kaman assured me that they would be fine they know the caves well, and it was important that we get going. So we started on our way home, the path was very narrow and steep not the way we came. You could feel the electricity in the air, it almost felt like my hair was standing up on end, and that very heavy warm air. The Lightning was spectacular, and the thunder deafening. We just kept on walking, the boys had caught up by now and wanted to take shelter, but I knew I just had to keep walking and Kaman agreed. It started to rain at first, and then the hail started, it was like marbles pouring out of the sky. After a while you got used to the stinging!
I did just wonder as we were high and on the edge of the hill whether anyone ever got struck by lightning? especially as I was the tallest! Kaman just laughed. I just kept walking.

When we got back we were all drenched, Lutchens and all the other women were having their usual social by the water pump. They all thought it was hilarious, Lutchens summoned her daughter Sarita to fetch us some tea. Hot and warming and spiced with cardamnon, delicious!

Kathmandu day 1

I have been saying Im going to do this for days, and if I dont start now I will never catch up. Always better to write when things are fresh in your heart.
So, may I just say that this really is just a journal for myself to reflect upon and remember those special moments,people,and Nepal. But also when family and friends have a fleeting thought of "I wonder what Deborahs up to" you know where to look!

My adventure started with Susannah taking me to the airport in her new car, how lovely I thought that my daughter is doing this for me. They are growing up. Which of course is why I find myself able to embark on this trip.

Massively overweight on the baggage, rather a tense momemt as the girl informs me I am 12 kilos over, she calls her manager. I explain that I have lots of childrens books and that I had understood that if you were working for a charity the airline was fairly leanient. At that moment "wheels on the bus" rang out from one of my bags. Thankyou Morag, that little book probably saved me around £200.

On to Kathmandu. Dear Deepak,met me at the airport along with Kaman the chap who is going to be my companion/helper for the next 8 weeks. Wonderful to see a familiar face smiling at me through the crowd.

We drive to the Vajra Hotel,that had been recommended to me by a friend of Mick Coopers. Very Nepalese,quite basic by our standards,but middle of the road for Nepal. Full of character and charming staff.Didnt want to have to have too much contrast to where I am going. The hotel is situated at the foot of the hill where the Swayambhunath Temple sits It is the oldest buddhist temple in Nepal. The whole sight is full of atmosphere, it is mobbed by monkeys, and soars above the city. There are Thousands of Prayer flags with mantras fluttering above the stuppa (temple) supposedly carrying all prayers to heaven on the wind. I visited here last October and wanted to stay close by this time, to soak up the atmosphere.
Kathmandus traffic problems dont go away, its hot, smelly, noisey, bustling, and all that, and its just wonderful.

Deepak insists I come to stay at his house the next day. It is new years day in Nepal, just to complicate matters they are in the year 2067,(havent worked out how or why) and the start of the year is always around middle of April. Today is a public holiday and also Mothers Day. His wife and child have gone back to her village,about 150km away to see her mother, and Deepak is spending the day with his parents who live just up the road in a quieter spot of Kathmandu.
After depositing all my stuff at Deepaks house we walk to his families house. We are met by mum Dad,Grandma, sister and aunty. Father and sister both speak good english and are desperate for news of Roshan who works for Navin at the Royal Oak and is studying in England. He has been to my house a couple of times for tea and calls me his Thulo mummy which means Big mummy a kind of respect for someone outside the family.

Deepaks mother cooks lunch for Deepak and myself, and then stands over us while we eat. Navins words ring in my ears "do not eat in peoples homes" I just hoped that that did not include Deepaks family. I was fine! After lunch Surakshya Deepaks 17 year old sister is delighted to take me down town Kathmandu to visit the Durbar square which was one of the royal residences when Kathmandu was divided into principalities. Beautiful buildings with spectacular wood carvings. We also visited the home of the living Goddess, she did not show herself today. Although 22 years ago when Jason and I visited Kathmandu the then living goddess did come to her window.

Whilst we are "down town" I discover my visa card does not work..declined three times! also my phone has packed up, both informed I was going abroad........what the hell... Im in Nepal! and it all gets sorted.

Stayed at Deepaks house that night. Not coping very well with crouching loos, terrible on the knees! and how on earth are you supposed to relax?

Up early, all the family arrive to watch me have breakfast and say their farewell. But not before Deepaks father insists I take a spare mobile telephone. What a delightful family they are.

pokara to Dadasaura

Before you start I must tell you I have absolutely no idea who the fat, butch lesbiana in the yellow teashirt is. I did ask charlotte to remove her but instead she has appeared twice!!

On arrival at Pokara, I was met by geevan an associate of Navins and also Kaman who had travelled up the night before by bus. We had lots of supplies to buy before going up to the village and wasted no time. Straight down to Mahendra ave, the local shopping area where we purchased just about everything you can think of from, Mattress, blanket, sheets, gas hob, cylinder, pots pans, cutlery etc etc. All loaded into the car with great difficulty. We were beginning to look like new age travellers! Whilst in the hardware store, I made my most important purchase. A bright red very large tall bucket!! I will leave it to your own imagination to decide what that was for!! Along with several other buckets, it would be later that I would realise just how important buckets are. We collect the water, we do our washing and wash ourselves. All from a bucket.

Pokara is a very popular tourist destination, and many treks start and finish here. There is a great atmosphere. With back packers, hippies, trekkers, and the nepalese take their holidays here, shops, music and a real buzz to the place. In the middle of town there is the most beautiful lake, probably one of the most tranquil places I have ever been to and so much bird life, apparently over 850 species. I am sure I will spend a week end here at some point.

Having finished the shop back to my hotel my last bath for some time, and to bed!

Today I go to Dadasaura, A little aprehensive but looking forward.
Gevan arrived at the hotel to make sure everything was sorted. A friend of Man Gurung was driving back up to Syanja so he was taking half the supplies, plus myself and Kaman, and Man packed his car with the rest. We had a good run up and it only took about 1 and 1/2 hours.
The drive is picturesque passing through terrased countryside growing a mixture of rice and millett. We saw a few tractors as well as beasts working the land so it would imply there is a little more money in this area.
But even if you have a tractor there are some things that never change!!

On arrival at Syanja, Kaman and I were met by Man Gurung the head of the village and two of the other elders. They were three lovely old gentlemen in their late 70s I would say. Two had served in the Indian army, and the other the British army in Hong Kong, and two have sons who are in the Gurkha regiment. In fact Krishne the son of Man telephoned me today via his fathers phone to make sure everything was fine.
Everything was unloaded onto the pavement, memories of Paris!!

Kaman and I bought our fresh vegetables,garlic,chillies, and fresh ginger from the local stores, swarming with flies!! I just kept thinking, its going to be boiled!! Syanja is a busy little town with a few shop/stalls for essentials and lots of comings and goings, the local bus service seems to be quite regular and fairly interesting, so we might venture down to Pokara for that experience.
Also bought some cotton for making a gown as a cover up to stand in my bowl of water and bath! cotton £2 and making £1. Found the local hairdressers, its behind the curtain! So I think we re all set,even for the roots!!!

My three gentlemen insisted on cramming themselves into the back of the jeep with Kaman, allowing me the comfort of the front seat alone. I did try to persuade them that there was plenty of room in the front for one more, but they wouldnt hear of it.
We turn off the road straight up a rock laden, dusty track, with gullies washed away by the heavy rain. Our driver manages very well, but how they keep these Jeeps going amazes me, its seriously rough terrain, even by Hallbottom standards.

On arrival at Dandasaura lots of people were waiting to lend a helping hand to get all my stuff up to where I will be living.But before we are allowed to do anything else, there is a" welcome programe" which I am to attend. The ladies of the village had cooked goat, vegetable curry, and daal bhat as they say. I ate the meal as I did not want to offend, but was saying my prayers with every mouthful! All the men of the village introduced themselves, and the chairman made a speech to welcome me. I have to say I felt very very touched! I am on the edge of the village looking east out over the middle hills, there is a concrete step outside my door and then approx 3 metres before it drops away to the terraces.
My place is brick built, with a concrete floor so thats a real plus, and there is electricity in the village its just not very reliable. Most houses are built with stone and mud, and the floors are a mixture of mud and dung, the dung makes the mud set hard. This combination is used for many things.

My three elderly gents have a long discussion as to how the room should be arranged and what is needed. A desk appears from somewhere along with a chair and a low table to go beside my bed. One of the neighbours appears with brush to sweep the floor and her son Vim also to put up a washing line to hang my clothes on and also hang the curtains that Man Gurung thoughtfully bought for me. Kaman is then shown where he is staying. He is in the middle of the village in the community building, which has a first floor terrace, this is our open air kitchen, it has 2 rooms leading off,one is a sort of a youth club and the other is for Kaman to sleep in. The place is filthy! I am impressed by Kamans complete calmness, he just gets straight to work and starts cleaning the place up. Lots of the others come to help with electrics etc etc a real joint effort. By 6.30pm that evening we are entertaining our first guests, who have come to take a look at me, and we already feel like its home.

Most of our guests are teenagers, and are extremeley inquisitive as to who this english woman is. They also love to speak english. One of the boys is called Bishometre he very proudly tells me his name translates into "world friend" I soon realise that his name is extremely apt, because there is one of these in every country you visit. He knows just about everything,constantly pointing out the obvious, what hes not sure of he bluffs, and if he doesnt understand he says "yes".(he is the one in the photo holding up his fingers)

Anyway we are here, my bed is made, my net firmly in place and after supper watched by many we have a good nights sleep.