The next day relaxed, then we set off for Kathmandu, but went via the River Trishuli and had a day white water rafting. Great fun and quite hair raising, thought I was going over board at one point. On to Kathmandu... you really do take a leap of faith when you travel by road in Nepal. There are few roads and given the fact that nearly the whole country is an endless network of foothills, the roads are always on the side of something, cut in, and with sheer drops. The drivers take their lives and everyone elses into their hands, overtaking on blind corners constantly. There arent many private cars on the road but loads and loads of lorries. All brightly painted and decorated.
Day 1 Kathmandu Lukla to Phakding
Kathmandu for one night in the very comfortable Courtyard hotel, and on to Lukla by small aircraft at 6.00am the following morning. Dear Kaman arrived to make sure we got to the airport on time.
Lukla is a tiny airstrip on the side of a rock face and you land uphill, Ive never seen that before. We collected our luggage with our guide Ramis (sadly Kaman couldnt come) and hired a porter, quick coffee and started walking to Phakding our first stopover only about 2 hours away.
We arrived at Phakding, nothing at all extraordinary about this place other than noticing the different appearance of the people. The Sherpas, they inhabit the Khumbu valley which is linked to Tibet through a mountain pass via Thame, pronounced Thamay! The Sherpas have much broader faces and more Tibetan looking. They were historically a nomadic tribe who came here from Tibet 500years ago and stayed. The best climbers, mountaineers and guides are always Sherpas. They are just the most lovely people always smiling with a really great sense of honour and humour.
Rosemary is not feeling at all well. We muddle through that afternoon hoping she will feel better tomorrow. Both scratching furiously we have a denitting session. The next day she felt no better and made the decision to go back to Kathmandu, not being comfortable treking at high altitude. It was such a shame as we were both enjoying walking together and full of excitement as to what the forthcoming days would bring. I decide to carry on to Namche Bazaar with Yolbarat our porter and Rosemary goes back to Lukla with Ramis.our guide.
Day 2 Phakding to Namche Bazaar
The next morning I set off Namche B . It took me 5 and half hours and three hours were straight up so you had to take it slowly. I am in a very different place to the last 6 weeks............... much much cooler, and rugid. A harsher landscape with high rock walls either side of the river Dudh koshi which flows from Tibet and Everest and joins outside Namche Bazaar. We followed the river for a good two hours crossing and recrossing six times on narrow long suspended bridges festooned with Tibetan prayer flags fluttering in the wind. Back and forth and winding our way up and up, meeting caravans of Gopkoy(a cross between a cow and a yak) carry heavy loads up the trails, with bells dongling as they go. Children with much broader faces and very rosy cheeks from the weather.
The vegetation is mostly potato crops and a small amount of barley. We saw Lychees growing on the trees which were very tempting but resisted. As we ascended the trees were mostly a sort of Pine, clinging to the rock face. Euphorbia, gorze bushes, primulas, and foxgloves and Rhodedendrones. When we finally arrived in Namche Bazaar it was like entering another world. Surrounded by high rock walls with the mountains behind. This is the last proper village before going up to the really remote places. It reminds me of a Cornish village built on the side of a hill and up against the rocks. Lacking the sound of crashing waves!
Namche Bazaar is a buzzy little village and the main port of call for people setting off on their treks in the Khumbu valley. This is the last place to buy those last minute provisions that youve forgotten.
The haunting sounds of the monks blowing horns from the brightly painted buddhist monestary on one side of the valley create a mystical atmosphere. This week they have Puja it happens three times a year. This Puja is to celebrate the longest day and good crops. Prayers usually take place in the morning and the evening. Today is Buddha"s birthday so even more special.
We stayed in a very comfortable hotel, unlike last night I even had an “attached”bathroom with hot water. Marvellous...............The people who run the hotel Panoramic are lovely and light the fire for me in the dining room when I say I am cold. Great food as in Daal bhat and bed.
Day 3. Namche Bazaar Everest view hotel , Khumjung Namche Bazaar ( acclimatisation day)
The following day yolbarat the porter and I went for a walk.Yolbarat is a bit of a character as it turns out. Hes a sort of a nepalese version of a Hobbit! Smells dreadfully because he never washes. He loves to use my wet wipes, thats the only time his face looks vaguely clean. About 5ft 3inches tall, huge personality and seems to know everyone. Dont quite trust him yet. We walked for just under 2 hours and went to the highest hotel on earth. The Everest view hotel. Only today Everest was not showing himself. We saw lots of other mountains that peeped out between the clouds. Ramis appeared having walked up from Lukla, he must have left at 5.00am. After an hour or so we decided to walk on to the village of Khumjung not very far away. Strange atmosphere here everything seems to be grey and rather remote, stone walls keep animals in or out depending if there are potatoes growing. We go to the Monastery where the Lama is holding court, all the other monks are sitting in lines, either praying or reading. People are coming and going bringing bags of food as a donation. I put my donation in the box and the cupboard next to the box was carefully unpadlocked, supposedly the contents were a preserved “Yeti head” Rumour has it that its a buffalo head or part of.
We walk back to Namche bazaar and its around this time that Im starting to feel disappointed that we are not going to Everest base camp. Im here in the mountains, what a shame if I dont do it! After a conversation of sorts in broken nepali/english with Ramis. He says he can spare the time, but I would need to buy or rent several pieces of equipment, ie sleeping bag, jacket,gloves, hat, waterproof trousers, thermals etc. The telephone call to Wendy is made and Im not very busy that week so yes I can stay a little longer and go to Everest base camp. YIPPEE, I am so excited!!
Ramis and I take Namche Bazaar by storm its getting late in the afternoon and we have to buy so much. I manage to rent a sleeping bag, which is bearable as have bought a new liner. Jacket is hired and the other small items are bought including warm clothes for Ramis and the Yolbarat.I also have a hole in one of my boots which the local shoe maker repairs for me. I just hope they last the trip. Every thing sorted Ramis and I have a coffee in the Everest guest house and paw over our map of the area. I am so excited!! Make all my other calls and emails supper and bed. With all my clothes on!! Its so cold at night!
Day 4. Namche Bazaar to Tengboche
Today we are walking to Tengboche which is 750 metre climb if you include we drop 300 meters before we go up again. The path leaves namche b from behind our hotel. We walk out going north along a narrow path. We meet Lots of yak trains coming in the opposite direction bringing all the equipment down from Everest, the climbing season is coming to an end. Ive never seen animals work so tirelessly, they just steadily go up and down the mountain carrying the heaviest loads, their dung is dried and used as fuel, their milk is a delicacy for butter and cheese and all this for a bag of grass which they also carry on their backs. The day starts relatively easily, paths are just ascending gently. The mountains nupse and ama dablam are coming and going between the clouds, the sun is shining and its a really lovely day.
The Everest Marathon is on today starting at Base camp and finishing in Namche B. We meet our first competitor after weve been walking for about 2 hours. Of course hes Nepalese, little and wirey. Puffing and panting I cant imagine jogging at that altitude. There are several other hopefuls that we meet along the way including a few English and American competitors.
After a very tough climb up what seemed like a never ending hill, with steps that are supposed to be helpful, but they never seem to match my stride. We finally arrive at Tengboche. Other than a Buddhist monastery a few stray dogs and a couple of tea houses there is absolutely nothing there! We go into the monastery and have a look round, a larger version of the Khumjung one really. Having done the only thing to do in Tengboche we now go to look for a teahouse to stay in. Its getting really cold and damp, the cloud is low and you cant see the mountains but Im told in the morning there is a good view of Everest. We pick the liveliest one and there are a few people there that I have met walking before, including an American girl who is a fire fighter in Irag working for the U.S. military, shes also a mountain climber in her spare time!
The landlord lights the fire in a sort of a wood burner in the middle of the dining room. We all hug the fire, chat and order our food. Read a bit, chat a while and when we all finally decide theres no point in staying up any longer. Its time for bed. The porters are the luckiest they get to sleep in the cushioned benches in the dining room with the fire. We all have to go back to our icebox rooms that resemble an over sized plywood packing case, with a door and a padlock.
Its 8.30pm and I tuck myself up in my sleeping bag fully clothed and hope I can sleep. The altitude does play peculiar tricks,sometimes it wakes you from a deep sleep feeling a little breathless. It was a disturbed night on and off, and I woke properly at 4.45am.
Patchy viewing of the mountains but the best weve seen so far. Am beginning to realise the sheer size of these great pyramids of rock. The surrounding scenery looks to me to earn the title of mountain, but when I ask if they are, Im told “these are just the foothills” When you see the real thing you realise why.
Day 5 Tengboche to Dingboche
After breakfast we set off walking through a Rhodedendrone forest down hill towards the next village. This will be the last of the green for a while. For now the Rhodedendrones are blooming a lemon colour, there are cow slips, wild strawberries in flower, everything a little later here. The scenery is becoming remote and mountainous. The sun is still hot during the day but trousers need to be worn early and late afternoon. We have basically followed the river flowing down from the mountains today, it is so fast flowing it gives a new take on white water, and sea green glass colour.
The walking was easier today not so steep, after a short descent, just a gentle climb but constant. Still about 6 hours. We have climbed to 4410 metres today so 600 meters higher than last night. Tomorrow is a day off to acclimatise, so we will be walking up to Chhukhung, about a 5 hour round trip its at 4730metres which is good because we will come back to sleep. They say walk high and sleep low. It all helps!! Its been a very gradual process and seems to be paying off. There are stories of Americans who have been trying to helicopter in at a higher altitude to get to base camp sooner, and have ended up being very ill and having to return.
We arrive at Dengboche, it is set down in a valley with the harsh rugid hillsides all around. Grey, grey and grey. You have to look carefully to pick out the houses and guesthouses everything blends into the surroundings. I wonder to myself why anyone in their right mind would want to live here or Tengboche where we were last night. There are more guest houses here and a slightly better standard. We decide to have a look at a few before we decide, especially after last night
.Its disappointing. They re pretty much of a muchness and end up going for the 100rupies (under£1) with the hot shower as extra. I would have been happy to pay much more for comfort. But its simply not here, the showers are filthy, and its far too cold to take your clothes off to shower. So I think I ll just stick with my own dirt!
When Ive checked in I realise that there are several buddhist monks here. I am sitting here in the dining room now. They are all lining the walls praying and chanting, cross legged. Blowing the horns and beating a drum. This has been going on all afternoon and I fear that I might have to eat my supper with all this noise.
I did!
I gather they come here every year to pray and bless the guest house, The landlady, daughter, and grandmother all wait on them constantly bringing tea and soup. I suspect the monks rather look forward to their “job” here. Im beginning to feel a little like a second class guest.
Day 6 Dengboche to cchukhung and back again
I woke up warm in my sleeping bag, but I could see my breath. Ramis came with a bowl of hot water which was great to warm my hands in. Piled on a few more layers of clothes. Breakfast at 6.30am Porridge! . I found the walking very difficult today, my legs felt like lead weights and I had a head ache. Took regular breaks and drank lots of water.
The saving grace were the views, absolutely spectacular. We had nearly 360 degrees of mountains Ama dablam, Lhotse,Nuptse, Island peak and many others that we didnt know the names. This is the draw back of Ramis and Yolbarat, their english is just not good enough to explain things to me. I suspect Ramis is not an experienced guide at all. Would like to just have one helper now that Rosemary has gone but feel committed to employ them, and they are only £7 per day each.
Breathtaking views, locals bringing their yaks up to higher ground to find grazing, calves at foot. Juniper, wild orchids, and many other Alpine plants that I do not know the names. In a few weeks time when the monsoon starts the whole place will erupt into life. Farmers are preparing their fields by hand for this extreme growing season.
Tomorrow we go to Labouche which is 4920metres. Will have to feel alot better than I did today, otherwise might stay here for another night or somewhere in between.
Day 7 Dingboche to Labouche
Today was going to be testing by any stretch of the imagination. But WOW, worth every bit of effort. We left Dingboche at 7.00am and basically walked straight up over one side of the valley. When we reached the top the views were just amazing. A completely different take on some of the mountains we had already seen and also others we had not. We were now viewing the mountains from their base rather than from behind other rock formations. The landscape was barren with previously fallen rocks littering the valley. Another river flowing down from the mountains to join up with the Dudh koshi. We walked on the opposite hill side which was over grazed grasses and what looked like heather, a few loose yak grazing in the distance, waiting for the rains, which thank goodness for me are late this year.We heard an avalanche rumbling in the distance.
The sheer size and drama of the mountains is something that I had completely underestimated. Having seen them in the distance for some weeks they were impressive enough. But to get up as close as this is awesome, almost frightening. The experience of simply standing in front of the Himalaya is completely indescribable and no photograph will do it justice.
It took us 2 and half hours to get to Dhukla where we stopped to fill up on noodle and veg soup. Another litre of water. Feeling so much better today, really feel I am acclimatising better than yesterday. After lunch which was at 9.30am we started our climb up the rock strewn hill side, boulder after boulder, very slippery and difficult to get a footing on the loose stones in between. It felt more like rock climbing than trekking. I stopped many times to rest before I reached the top. Absolutely no point pushing yourself beyond what you are comfortable with.
At the top we found Yolbarat sitting chatting to all the other porters and generally being funny, I get the impression hes well known on the trekking routes. Piles of cairns (rocks) are all over the place, and there is a group of memorial stones to lost climbers and sherpas .Blessing scarves, Prayer flags everywhere between the rock piles and linking up all the memorials. The atmosphere here is quite sad. We drop down off the top to be met by the most wonderful smell, it was a hillside of juniper plants for a brief moment I thought Yolbarat had had a wash and put some aftershave on, then realised how silly of me. Then on down to what I can only describe as a Lunar Landscape with yet another take of the mountains. The Cho la pass in view which is a pass through to the Gokyo region incredibly steep and difficult. I would love to do a trek in that region next time and do the pass. We made our way slowly along the valley. Where we saw a pair of 2 very large birds on the ground, apparently called Khalme and beautifully coloured. We kept walking until finally we came to Labouche, a small cluster of buildings resembling a shanty town, grey and not very visible, offering basic accommodation, cold water, and wooden beds to weary trekkers or climbers. I havent taken my clothes off for three days and i dont think i will be tonight. The glacier on the opposite hillside is covered in rockfalls and if you listen carefully you can hear it cracking. The locals say the level of the ice has dropped dramatically over the last few years.
There is excitement in the air, we are all within reach of our goal. Everest base camp. A couple of days ago none of us really knew whether we would make it or not. “we” are fellow travellers we all keep passing each other, usually they overtake me, they are all in their 20s. Now we are closer there is a definate commeradarie amongst us which is fun.
There is a small group of teenagers staying in the same guest house. They are all on a school trip from Singapore. Quite an amusing bunch, terribly interested in where i come from, all speak excellent english, very polite, every single one has pebble glasses, a few have buck teeth, asian/chinese origins and very excited about tomorrow. I should imagine in 25 years time they ll all be in highly important jobs in the banking world somewhere in Asia!!
We have decided to leave here at 4.30am to walk to our last village Gorak Shep. It should only take a couple of hours and we have been advised to have breakfast there and then walk to Everest base camp, the conditions should be clearer the earlier we go
BED
Day 8
Well you never can count your chickens as they say. I had the most terrible night last night, had to sit up in bed for hours as I couldnt catch my breath and severe headache. Of course I started to panic imagining all sorts of things mainly Altitude Sickness, developing into the lung and brain odema!! Bearing in mind had been in bed since 8.45 I finally plucked the courage to wake my neighbours a young australian couple at 11.00 they had some Diamox which is supposed to help get the oxygen around your body a little more quickly. Apparently we only have 53% of the oxygen that we are used to at this height, which is why it is so important to let your body acclimatise. The pills did help and I got some sleep.
Any way I got up at 4.30am, not feeling very well at all and decided that I will stay at this height for one more day in the hope I will have a better nights sleep, and feel fit for tomorrow. So Im not there yet!!. So close and yet so far as they say.
Yolbarat and Ramis tucked me up in bed again and brought me hot lemon and honey, then I got a couple of hours sleep until 8.00am. Its a beautiful day, crystal clear and blue skies, the sort that children paint at nursery school.
Im just about to have some garlic soup which seems to be a mountain cure for everything. The fire is lit and the yak dung burning well. A few odd stragglers are arriving here from other parts telling tales of their experiences. Yolbarat apparently used to work here, so is busying himself in the kitchen with his mates. I keep telling him to go and relax but to no avail. We shall walk for a couple of hours this afternoon to a higher altitude in the hope of feeling better. Ramis is becoming extremely irritating, he obviously loves to play cards with the other porters and guides which is fine, but I suspect he is drinking, which is unheard of as a guide and particularly at high altitude. He looks dreadful today. Apparently last night he had to sleep in the tent which I was very upset about as its so cold. Also guides are there to make sure that you as a tourist, are safe and reassured should you become ill which I was last night. I tried to get to the bottom as to why he was not sleeping in the guest house with the other guides and porters but no one would tell me.
I tried to find him tonight to discuss our plans for tomorrow but I couldnt find him, so went to bed at 8.30 with everyone else. At 10.00pm (really late for here) he came knocking at my door. He had obviously been drinking and was muttering about not being a good guide, having to sleep in the tent again and he wanted to go back to Kathmandu in the morning. At first I felt sorry for him and tried to persuade him to stay. I went to the dining room where the manager and yolbarat were, and tried to sort out his sleeping arrangements and find out why he was sleeping in the tent again. They simply would not talk about it and it was only when I fetched one of the blankets off my bed that they agreed he could sleep in the house. The following morning Ramis who looked dreadful acted as though nothing had happened. After much thought I decided it was time for him to go so I gave him his money and his flight ticket back to Kathmandu. It was the right decision, I have since gained snippets of information and I think he was gambling and drinking at another guesthouse until late which is completely frowned upon. Which is why he was sent to the tent to sleep. But not one of them was going to tell me that.
So its just Yolbarat and me now!
Day 9. Lobuche to Gorak shep
Feeling as fit as a fiddle and really pleased I took that extra day to recover. We set off at about 7.15 and walked to Gorak Shep along side the Khumbu glacier creaking and groaning as we went. It only took us 3 hours and I said to Yolbarat that I wanted to walk to the Everest base camp and back the same day. “Impossible” he said, “we ll see” I said. Gorak Shep was just a few guest houses nestled into a valley beside what was once a lake. Yaks and ponies scratching around for a blade of grass and the ever present Mountains soaring up from the glacier. Nuptse, the second largest mountain in Nepal which seemed like it was on our door step was rumbling with avalanches, we saw three that morning. By about 10.30am when the air is warming up a little at this time of year, the risk of avalanche is very high.
We checked into the “Yeti” and had a rest and good early lunch. I informed Yolbarat that nothing was impossible and we were going to everest base camp that day. The time was midday and given that it was a good 5 hour round trip sounded perfect to me. So we set off, following a rocky trail which became a ledge beside the Khumbu glacier and always with Nuptse on our right. It was just magical.
James a 23 year old New zealander who is a trainee pilot for the New zealand airforce has been following the same path as me for the past few days and has become a companion. We spent a sick day together in Lobuche. I must point out he is NOT a walking companion. I usually leave 45 minutes before him and he always overtakes me and is finishing his tea when I finally arrive at a given destination. Such is life! Youth is a wonderful thing and so not appreciated when you have it...........
Today was no exception, and James overtook me 30 minutes into the walk to Everest base camp. I arrived approximately 30 minutes after him. We were both so overwhelmed by the beauty and awe of this remote place. James had brought the New Zealand flag with him so we clambered on top of the EBC Inscribed rock and Yolbarat was photographer! Many New Zealanders, quite rightly feel a great sense of pride that Hilary was the first man to conquer Everest, and this has become a pilgrimage to them. I folded up the flag to the small union jack in the corner and proudly had my picture taken. We sat and watched and listened to the sounds and sheer power of what was before us. Always aware that caution was paramount and mother nature should never be trusted or taken for granted.
With a feeling of great priviledge and accomplishment we walked back to the Yeti. That night was one of those nights that you can never manufacture. We were the only two staying in the guest house, both tired but elated. I retrieved my ipod from the depths of my bag (ive hardly felt the need to listen to it) and we listened to music, the boys who were running the place seemed to really enjoy the music and as it is so quiet at this time of year joined us around the yak dung fire. We sat and talked about our different lives and how they saw their lives. In short, they were contented with everything they had. One of them was a climber he was 20 years old and had climbed Ama dablam, and Island peak several times, but had had no training and could not afford it. Many Sherpas loose their lives to the mountains, but it does not deter them. The mountains are in their blood, from the moment they are born they see their mother and then the mountains in that order, and from then on they are ever present towering above their playground as they grow into men. The women seem to have an acceptance of the fact that they may well loose their men to these majestic forces and just carry on with their already tough and difficult lives. The feeling of tiredness that night was bliss, a very special day in my. lifetime.
Day 10. Kala Patthar and the start of the journey back down.
Kalar Patthar is a peak that is 5550 meters high and is renowned for giving the very best views of Everest without actually climbing it, and the surrounding mountains at 360 degrees, so it had to be done, and early for the best conditions!
The day started at 5.30am. I literally dragged myself up to the top of Kala Patthar, the steep climb and lack of oxygen felt terminal and definately took its toll, but overcome by sheer determination!
I was overtaken by many young, but once there I was able to join in with the excitement of the glorious sight of being completely surrounded by the himalayas. Everest as usual attracting cloud around its lofty summit. There were odd moments when the cloud dispersed slightly revealing tantilising glympses of the highest point in the world. Everest itself, although the highest, is not the most beautiful. It is said that “Everest is like a very fat man surrounded by beautiful women” and I think I agree, Ama dablam being my favourite with its almost elegant and delicate lines.
For the first time in my life being alone did not detract one iota from the sheer sense of enjoyment that I was experiencing. A wonderous sight will always be that, even if you are alone. Its taken me a while to learn that.
We descend quickly and have our breakfast. Then feeling that what I set out to do has been accomplished, I want to get back to Kathmandu as soon as possible. I tell Yolbarat that I want to walk as far as we can today preferably to Pangboche. The walk down to Lukla to fly back to Kathmandu is usually 4 to 5 days. I would like to do it in 3 days. Yolbarat shrugs his shoulders and says “impossible” I just smile and say “we ll see”. I have learnt not to take too much notice of the estimates of walking times that the Nepalese give you, as the porters/guides want an easy day and the lodge owners want you to stay the night.
So already having walked for a good 3 and half hours in the early morning we set off at 11.00am and we walk and we walk. We reach Dughla at around 3.00pm. Yolbarat wants to stay the night here. “Not on your nelly” Ive got a good few hours left in me yet. I can see Pheriche in the distance set down in a valley below Dingboche where we stayed on the way up. We”ll just see how long it takes to reach there. We walked for another 2 hours and yes I am beginning to feel very weary. I look at the map and to Yolbarats dismay say” Pangboche cant be much farther away”. We keep walking! It took us another 2 hours to reach Pangboche, and the light was beginning to fade. To poor Yolbarats relief I agreed that yes we can stay here. The guest house was warm and friendly and run by a young lad who seemed to be looking after 2 small children. Apparently their mother had gone to Namche Bazaar to the Tibetan market to buy supplies, and she would be back tomorrow. N B would be a good 5 hours even by local standards. There were 2 other guests staying on their way up the mountain. We had a pleasant evening and then went to bed. My room was swarming with flies. I pulled up my sleeping bag and went to sleep with my mouth closed!
Day 11 Pangboche to Namche Bazaar
The following morning the porridge was served and we all sat in the kitchen by the solid fuel cooker. The young boy who looked around 19 years was very kind and caring to the children,wiping the little boys nose, which is something that doesnt happen very often in Nepal. I was so impressed by the responsibilty he showed. The father of the children had been killed last year in a climbing accident on Ama dablam along with several others.
We set off at around 7.30am it is noticeably warmer,the trousers are rolled up and a few layers shed. We are now back in the tree line, and the Rhodedendrones are still flowering. Yolbarat passes a friends house, and we are invited in for tea to while away 20 mins in the smokey kitchen by the stove.
Our walk takes us back through Tingboche, we pass many stuppas and mani stones (carved with Tibetan prayers) and start to descend the long steep hill towards Namche Bazaar. Do I have a tinge of a smug smile on my face as I see other trekkers on their way up? When ever we see someone that Yolbarat knows he asks if I want to rest, Ive caught on to this now, and we can waste up to an hour in a day while he chats away to his friends. So I just say that we rest at the top of a hill not at the bottom or on the flat. We pass yak caravans going up, they will be pleased to reach the higher altitudes, yaks dont cope very well with the lower altitude as its too warm for them with their thick coats, and several people carrying the heaviest of loads from building materials, to gas cylinders, to Several 25 litre containers of kerosine, and also those who have been to the Tibetan market. Namche Bazaar is a welcome sight, it took us 6 hours in total. Its really good to be back in relative civilisation and I enjoy the buzz of this place, walking the narrow streets with people selling their wares, and the general hub.
We have a sweet milky coffee and find a guest house. Take back the sleeping bag and jacket. I am absolutely exhausted and have a few hours sleep in the afternoon. Which does mean Im not sleeping as early as I should be tonight, its 1.00am and Im doing this! There seems to be alot of wild life in this hotel, I can hear all sorts of scampering about in the ceiling and walls!! But believe me this is luxury compared to what I am used to.
Tomorrow we leave to go to Lukla, about 7 hours away, in the hope that I can get a flight the next morning to Kathmandu. Its mostly down hill, which I must say is not great on my knees so have made an enquiry as to how much a horse would cost, but its 100 us dollars, so Im walking!
Day 12 Namche Bazaar to Lukla.
I start the day with very mixed feelings. Part of me is really looking forward to getting to the comfort of my hotel in Kathmandu and another part is really going to miss the daily sights and sounds of being in the mountains. The first part of our walk is excruciating, its down hill very steeply and is hell on the knees. Every step is carefully planned around the loose stones that will tip you over in a second. This was the first two hours and I bearly looked up from the ground.
When we reached Monjo, the scenery had completely changed to the lush vegetation and green landscape that is so much Nepal. Some of the barley crops were being harvested by hand with the women singing as they worked. I stop often just to soak it all up, and relish my last few hours. The walking became quite tough, far more uphills than I remembered. We stopped for a rest outside a little house. A young boy came out dressed in the Buddhist monks clothes (dark red and orange) he could only have been around 7 years old and was quite fascinated by me, he was soon followed by an elderly monk who spoke to yolbarat. They had been into the house to eat, monks can call at any home and they will always be fed. Parents are always keen to put their children into a monastery it guarantees an education and also takes the strain off the rest of the family. When they reach a certain age they do have the choice as to whether they stay or not. We walked for a further few hours and eventually reached Lukla
